Weekend-Ready DIY Upgrades That Make Your Home Feel New

---

Project 1: Refresh a Room With a Clean, Professional Paint Job

A good paint job is one of the fastest ways to make a room feel brand new. The difference is in the prep and technique, not just the color.

Step 1: Choose the Right Paint and Sheen

Pick a paint type and finish that matches how the room is used.

• **Sheen basics**:
• Flat/matte: Hides wall flaws, best for low‑traffic areas and ceilings.
• Eggshell/satin: Good for living rooms, bedrooms, and hallways.
• Semi‑gloss: Best for trim, doors, and areas that need frequent cleaning.
• For durability, look for “washable” or “scrubbable” on the label.
• Buy a little extra (about 10–15%) in case you need touch‑ups later.

Step 2: Clear, Clean, and Repair the Walls

• Move furniture to the center and cover it and the floor with drop cloths.
• Dust baseboards and corners; wash greasy or dirty spots with a mild detergent solution.
• Use spackle to fill nail holes and small dents, then sand smooth when dry.
• For hairline cracks, open them slightly with a utility knife, fill with spackle or joint compound, then sand flat.

Step 3: Protect Surfaces and Cut In

• Use painter’s tape to mask trim, outlets, switches, and edges where walls meet ceilings (if you’re not painting the ceiling).
• “Cut in” with a quality angled brush: paint a 2–3 inch border along trim, corners, and ceiling edges before using a roller.
• Work in manageable sections so the brushed and rolled areas stay wet and blend together.

Step 4: Roll the Walls the Right Way

• Use a 3/8" to 1/2" nap roller for most walls; rougher surfaces need a thicker nap.
• Load the roller evenly in the tray, then apply paint in a “W” pattern and fill it in without pressing too hard.
• Keep a wet edge: overlap slightly into the last painted area while it’s still damp to avoid lap marks.
• Plan for at least two coats. Let the first coat dry fully per the can’s instructions before adding the second.

Step 5: Finish Cleanly

• Remove painter’s tape before the paint fully cures (often within 1–2 hours of the final coat, while it’s slightly tacky).
• Use a small brush to fix any bleed‑through or missed spots.
• Label leftover paint with room name and date, then store it in a cool, dry place for future touch‑ups.

---

Project 2: Upgrade a Backsplash With Peel‑and‑Stick Tiles

Peel‑and‑stick tiles are a fast, low‑mess way to modernize a kitchen or bathroom backsplash without specialized tools.

Step 1: Measure and Plan the Layout

• Measure the width and height of your backsplash area and calculate square footage. Add 10% extra for waste and cuts.
• Lay out several tile sheets on a table to understand the pattern and how seams match.
• Decide your starting point—often the center of a focal area (like behind the sink) or the most visible corner.

Step 2: Prepare the Surface

• The wall should be smooth, clean, dry, and non‑greasy.
• Wash the area with a degreaser or a mixture of warm water and dish soap, then let it dry completely.
• Lightly sand glossy paint or surfaces so the adhesive can grip better. Wipe off dust with a damp cloth.

Step 3: Make a Straight Reference Line

• Use a level to draw a straight horizontal guideline along the wall as your “first row” reference.
• If your countertop isn’t perfectly level, follow the level line, not the counter, and plan to trim at the bottom if needed.
• Double‑check this line—it controls how straight the entire backsplash looks.

Step 4: Apply the Tiles From the Reference Line

• Start at your chosen center point or most visible edge.
• Peel a small section of the backing at first, align the tile to your guideline, and press lightly so you can adjust if needed.
• Once it’s straight, peel the rest of the backing and press firmly, smoothing from the center outward to remove air bubbles.
• Stagger seams as recommended by the manufacturer so the pattern looks continuous.

Step 5: Cut Tiles for Edges and Outlets

• For straight edge cuts, mark the tile with a pencil, then use a metal ruler and utility knife to score and snap.
• For outlets and switches, cut carefully around the electrical box; always turn off power at the breaker first.
• Reinstall outlet/switch covers after the tiles are in place; you may need slightly longer screws if the tile adds thickness.

---

Project 3: Install a Water‑Saving Bathroom Faucet

A new, efficient faucet can update the look of your bathroom and cut water use, often with minimal plumbing experience required.

Step 1: Gather Tools and Check Compatibility

• Common tools: adjustable wrench, basin wrench, plumber’s putty or silicone (if needed), bucket, and towels.
• Check that the new faucet matches your sink holes: single‑hole, centerset (3 holes, 4" apart), or widespread (3 holes, 8" apart).
• Look for WaterSense‑labeled faucets for lower flow rates without weak water pressure.

Step 2: Turn Off Water and Remove the Old Faucet

• Shut off hot and cold water supply valves under the sink; turn the faucet on to relieve pressure.
• Place a bucket and towels under the sink.
• Use a wrench or basin wrench to disconnect water supply lines from the faucet.
• Loosen and remove the mounting nuts holding the faucet to the sink, then lift the faucet out from above.

Step 3: Clean the Sink Deck

• Scrape away old sealant or plumber’s putty with a plastic scraper.
• Clean the area with a mild cleaner and dry completely.
• Check for rust or damage around the faucet holes; address any small chips with touch‑up if needed.

Step 4: Install the New Faucet

• Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for any gaskets or putty under the faucet base. Many newer models include a rubber gasket that replaces putty.
• Feed the faucet’s hoses and mounting stems through the sink holes.
• From under the sink, install washers and mounting nuts. Hand‑tighten first, then snug with a wrench—don’t overtighten.
• Connect hot and cold supply lines to the shutoff valves. Match “hot” to the left, “cold” to the right.

Step 5: Test for Leaks and Fine‑Tune

• Slowly open the shutoff valves under the sink.
• Turn on the faucet and let water run for 30–60 seconds to clear any debris.
• While water is running, check all connections under the sink with a dry paper towel to spot small leaks.
• If you see moisture, gently tighten that connection. Once everything is dry, your faucet is ready for regular use.

---

Project 4: Build a Simple Wall‑Mounted Entry Organizer

An entry organizer helps control clutter and gives keys, mail, and bags a permanent home.

Step 1: Plan the Size and Features

• Decide what you want it to do: hold keys, mail, sunglasses, small bags, or dog leashes.
• Measure your wall space and pick a width and height that fit without crowding.
• Sketch a basic design: a backboard, a small shelf, and a row of hooks work well in most homes.

Step 2: Cut and Prepare the Wood

• Use a pre‑cut board from the home center if you don’t have saws; common sizes like 1x6 or 1x8 work well.
• Lightly sand all surfaces and edges with medium‑grit (120–150) sandpaper, then finish with fine (220) for a smoother feel.
• Wipe off dust with a damp cloth.

Step 3: Assemble the Organizer

• Attach a narrow board or pre‑made shelf bracket to create a small top shelf (optional).
• Pre‑drill holes for hooks along the bottom, spacing them evenly.
• Install sturdy hooks rated to hold the weight you expect—keys and small bags vs. heavy backpacks.
• If you’re staining or painting, do that now and let it dry completely.

Step 4: Mark and Install Wall Anchors

• Decide on the mounting height—usually around 60–66 inches from the floor, depending on user height.
• Use a stud finder to locate studs. Anchoring into at least one stud is ideal.
• If no stud is available where you need it, use wall anchors rated for more weight than you plan to hang.
• Mark mounting hole locations on the wall, level them, and drill pilot holes.

Step 5: Mount and Load the Organizer

• Attach mounting hardware (such as keyhole hangers or a French cleat) to the back of the organizer per the instructions.
• Hang the organizer on the wall anchors or directly into studs.
• Test by gently pulling down to make sure it’s secure before adding keys, mail, and bags.

---

Project 5: Add LED Under‑Cabinet Lighting in the Kitchen

Under‑cabinet lights make counters more usable and your kitchen more inviting, often with simple plug‑in or low‑voltage kits.

Step 1: Choose the Right LED Kit

• Decide between **plug‑in** (easiest, no wiring) or **hardwired** (cleaner look, may require an electrician depending on your comfort and local codes).
• Pick a color temperature:
• 2700–3000K: Warm, cozy light.
• 3500–4000K: Neutral, good for kitchens.
• Measure cabinet lengths and buy a kit that covers slightly more than your total span.

Step 2: Plan the Layout and Power Source

• Identify an outlet inside or near the cabinets for plug‑in systems.
• Plan where the switch will be—built into the fixture, inline on the cord, or on the wall.
• Mark where each light strip or bar will go on the underside of cabinets, staying a few inches back from the front edge so the light hides from direct view.

Step 3: Prepare the Cabinet Undersides

• Wipe down surfaces with a degreaser; adhesive won’t stick to dust or grease.
• For stick‑on strips, lightly scuff glossy surfaces and clean again.
• Let everything dry fully.

Step 4: Mount the Lights

• For adhesive LED strips, peel backing a little at a time and press firmly along your marked line.
• For bar lights, use the supplied clips or screws, pre‑drilling tiny pilot holes if needed.
• Route wires neatly along cabinet edges using cable clips or adhesive cable channels.

Step 5: Connect, Test, and Tidy Cables

• Plug in the power supply and turn on the lights. Check for even illumination and secure connections.
• Hide visible cords as much as possible by tucking them along cabinet seams and backs.
• Label the plug or switch so guests know what it controls if it shares an outlet.

---

Conclusion

These five DIY projects are designed to be realistic, not overwhelming. Each one can be tackled with basic tools, a free weekend, and a bit of patience. Start with the upgrade that solves your most annoying daily problem—dim counters, cluttered entryway, outdated faucet, tired wall color, or a bland backsplash. As your skills and confidence grow, you’ll be ready to handle bigger fixes with the same step‑by‑step mindset.

---

Sources

• [U.S. Department of Energy – LED Lighting Basics](https://www.energy.gov/energysaver/lighting-choices-save-you-money#led) - Explains LED efficiency, lifespan, and color temperature for home lighting projects
• [EPA WaterSense – Bathroom Sink Faucets](https://www.epa.gov/watersense/bathroom-sink-faucets) - Details on water‑saving faucet performance and certification
• [Benjamin Moore – Paint Sheen Guide](https://www.benjaminmoore.com/en-us/interior-exterior-paints-stains/how-to-advice/interior-how-to-paint-advice/choose-paint-finish) - Overview of paint finishes and where to use them in the home
• [Family Handyman – Peel-and-Stick Tile Tips](https://www.familyhandyman.com/article/how-to-install-peel-and-stick-tile/) - Practical advice for getting better results with peel‑and‑stick backsplash installations
• [Lowe’s – How to Replace a Bathroom Faucet](https://www.lowes.com/n/buying-guide/faucet-installation-guide) - Step‑by‑step reference for faucet removal and installation techniques