Everyday Home Fixes You Can Actually Learn to Do Yourself

Each repair is broken down into clear steps, so you can follow along, build confidence, and keep your home running without calling a pro every time something squeaks, drips, or sticks.

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Step 1: Stop a Dripping Faucet

A dripping faucet wastes water and can drive you crazy at night. Most drips in standard faucets come from worn internal parts like cartridges, O-rings, or washers. Fixing it is usually about taking things apart in the right order, replacing a small part, and putting it back together correctly.

What you’ll need

• Adjustable wrench
• Phillips and flathead screwdrivers
• Replacement cartridge or washers/O-rings (specific to your faucet)
• Plumber’s grease (optional but helpful)
• Towel or small bucket

How to do it

1. **Turn off the water supply.** Look under the sink for shutoff valves and close both hot and cold by turning them clockwise. Turn the faucet on to release any pressure and verify the water is off.
2. **Plug the drain.** Use the sink stopper or a rag so you don’t lose tiny screws or parts.
3. **Remove the handle.** Look for a cap or small cover on the handle hiding a screw. Pry it off gently with a flathead screwdriver, then remove the screw and lift off the handle.
4. **Disassemble the faucet body.** Depending on your faucet type (cartridge, compression, ball, or ceramic disc), you’ll remove a retaining nut, collar, or decorative trim. Take clear photos as you go so you know how to reassemble.
5. **Find and replace the worn part.**
• **Cartridge faucets:** Pull out the cartridge and replace it with the exact same model.
• **Compression faucets:** Replace the rubber washer at the end of the stem and the O-ring along the stem.
• **Other types:** Replace seals or springs as a kit recommended for your faucet brand.
• **Lubricate and reassemble.** Apply a small amount of plumber’s grease to O-rings or moving parts (if recommended), then reassemble in reverse order using your photos.
• **Turn water back on and test.** Slowly open the shutoff valves and run the faucet. Check for leaks around the base and under the sink.

If the drip persists, double-check you used the correct replacement parts and that everything is seated fully and tightened snugly—but not over-tightened.

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Step 2: Quiet a Squeaky Door for Good

A squeaky door is usually caused by friction or minor misalignment at the hinges. Lubricating the moving parts and checking the screws can typically solve the problem in minutes.

What you’ll need

• Lubricant (silicone spray, dry Teflon spray, or light oil; avoid heavy grease)
• Old rag or paper towels
• Hammer and nail or small flathead screwdriver (optional, for pin removal)
• Screwdriver or drill

How to do it

1. **Identify where the squeak is coming from.** Slowly open and close the door, listening near each hinge. Most squeaks come from hinge pins rubbing metal-on-metal.
2. **Try lubricating in place first.**
• With the door closed, spray or apply a small amount of lubricant at the top of each hinge and along the pin.
• Open and close the door several times to work the lubricant in. Wipe away excess drips.
• **If it still squeaks, remove one hinge pin at a time.**
• Place a nail or small screwdriver under the bottom of the hinge pin.
• Tap upward gently with a hammer until the pin pops out.
• Support the door slightly with your foot or a wedge so it doesn’t shift.
• **Clean and lubricate the pin.**
• Wipe off old dirt and rust from the pin and inside the hinge barrel.
• Apply a light coat of lubricant to the pin, then reinstall it and tap gently back into place.
• **Tighten hinge screws.** Loose screws can cause sagging and noise. Tighten all hinge screws on the door and the frame. If a screw just spins, you may need a longer screw or to fill the hole with a wood plug or toothpicks and wood glue before reinstalling.
• **Test and adjust.** Open and close the door several times. If it still squeaks, repeat the process for the remaining hinges.

This same process works for interior, exterior, and even cabinet doors. Just be careful with finishes and avoid overspraying lubricants on painted surfaces.

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Step 3: Patch a Wall Hole So It Actually Disappears

Dings and holes in drywall are inevitable—especially around doors, furniture, and high-traffic areas. A clean, flush repair makes your walls look new again and improves how paint covers.

What you’ll need

• Premixed joint compound or lightweight spackle
• Putty knife (2–4 inch for small holes, 6-inch for larger)
• Sanding sponge or fine-grit sandpaper (120–220 grit)
• Self-adhesive patch (for larger holes, typically 2–6 inches)
• Primer and matching paint
• Damp rag

How to do it

1. **Assess the hole size.**
• **Nail or screw holes (tiny):** Less than 1/4 inch.
• **Small holes (up to ~2 inches):** Can be filled with spackle directly.
• **Medium holes (~2–6 inches):** Use a self-adhesive patch plus compound.
• **Prep the area.**
• Remove loose drywall paper or crumbling edges with the putty knife.
• Wipe dust away with a damp rag and let dry. Clean edges help the compound stick.
• **Fill or patch the hole.**
• **Tiny holes:**
• Press spackle into the hole using the putty knife, then scrape flat so the surface is level with the wall.
• **Small holes:**
• Apply spackle slightly beyond the hole, then feather the edges (thin them out) with the knife so it blends into the wall.
• **Medium holes:**
• Stick the self-adhesive patch over the hole, centered.
• Cover the patch with joint compound, spreading it a few inches beyond the edges and smoothing it out.
• **Let it dry fully.** Dry time depends on product and thickness—usually a few hours to overnight. Rushing this step is the biggest reason repairs show through paint.
• **Sand smooth.**
• Lightly sand the area until it’s flush with the surrounding wall and feels smooth to the touch.
• Wipe off dust with a damp cloth.
• **Prime and paint.**
• Apply a coat of primer over the patch to prevent “flashing” (where the patch shows through as a different sheen).
• Once dry, paint with matching wall paint. For the best blend, feather the paint a bit beyond the repair.

If your first attempt isn’t perfectly invisible, you can add a thin second layer of compound, sand again, and repaint. Wall repairs often look best after two light passes rather than one thick one.

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Step 4: Fix a Toilet That Keeps Running

A “running” toilet that won’t stop refilling wastes a lot of water and money. Most issues come from a worn flapper, incorrect water level, or a misadjusted fill valve. The repair is usually simple and doesn’t require removing the toilet.

What you’ll need

• Replacement flapper (match your toilet model if possible)
• Adjustable wrench or pliers (sometimes optional)
• Towel or sponge

How to do it

1. **Remove the tank lid and observe.**
• Flush the toilet and watch what happens inside the tank.
• Common signs: flapper not sealing, water level too high and flowing into overflow tube, or water trickling from the fill valve.
• **Check and replace the flapper.**
• Turn off the water supply behind the toilet.
• Flush to empty most of the water from the tank.
• Disconnect the flapper chain from the flush handle arm and slide the flapper off the overflow tube ears.
• Clean the seal area where the flapper sits, then install the new flapper in the same position.
• Reattach the chain, leaving just a little slack (too tight or too loose can cause problems).
• **Adjust the water level.**
• Turn the water back on and let the tank refill.
• The water level should usually be about 1 inch below the top of the overflow tube (check the tank’s fill line, if marked).
• Adjust using the screw or clip on the float arm or fill valve, following the manufacturer’s instructions.
• **Listen for hissing or trickling.**
• If water keeps running into the overflow tube, lower the water level more.
• If you still hear water after the tank is full and the flapper is sealing, the fill valve itself may be worn and need replacing.
• **Replace the fill valve if necessary.**
• Turn off water, flush, and sponge out remaining water.
• Disconnect the water supply line from the bottom of the tank.
• Remove the old fill valve (usually a locking nut under the tank).
• Install the new valve per instructions, set the correct height, reconnect the water line, and test.

Most running toilet issues are solved with a new flapper and a quick water-level adjustment, which are inexpensive fixes compared to a high water bill over time.

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Step 5: Reseat a Loose Towel Bar or Toilet Paper Holder

Wall-mounted hardware in bathrooms and high-use areas takes a lot of abuse. When towel bars or toilet paper holders start to wobble or pull away from the wall, the mounting anchors are usually stripped or too weak. Reseating them properly stops the wobble and prevents bigger wall damage.

What you’ll need

• Drill and drill bits
• New wall anchors (toggle bolts, molly bolts, or heavy-duty plastic anchors)
• Screwdriver
• Level (optional, but helpful)
• Pencil

How to do it

1. **Remove the loose fixture.**
• Loosen the small set screw under or behind each bracket (often a tiny Allen screw) and slide the bar off.
• Remove the brackets and existing screws/anchors from the wall.
• **Assess the existing holes.**
• If the drywall is badly damaged or crumbling, you may need to patch and move the mounting location slightly.
• If the holes are just enlarged, choosing larger, stronger anchors can solve it.
• **Choose appropriate anchors.**
• For heavier loads (like full-size towel bars or grab bars), use metal toggle or molly bolts.
• For lighter fixtures, heavy-duty plastic expansion anchors can work.
• If you can hit a wall stud, regular wood screws are best—no anchors needed.
• **Mark and drill new holes.**
• Hold the bracket against the wall in the desired location and mark screw holes with a pencil.
• Use a level to ensure the bar will sit straight.
• Drill pilot holes sized for your chosen anchors (check the anchor packaging for the correct bit size).
• **Install anchors and reattach hardware.**
• Insert the anchors into the pilot holes and set them according to instructions (some require tightening to expand).
• Screw the mounting brackets into the anchors firmly, but don’t overtighten and crush the drywall.
• Reattach the bar or holder to the brackets and tighten any set screws.
• **Test for stability.**
• Gently pull down and side-to-side on the bar or holder. There should be no wobble.
• If it still feels loose, check that anchors are fully set and screws are snug.

Doing this once the right way is far better than trying to “patch” with bigger screws into crumbling drywall. Strong anchors matched to the fixture weight make a big difference.

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Conclusion

Learning a handful of straightforward repairs turns your home from a constant source of small frustrations into a space you feel in control of. Stopping a drip, silencing a squeak, patching a wall, fixing a running toilet, and tightening up loose fixtures are all skills you can reuse for years.

Start with one project that feels manageable, follow the steps slowly, and take photos as you go. As your confidence grows, you’ll find more problems you can solve yourself—saving money, preventing bigger issues, and keeping your home feeling solid and well cared for.

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Sources

• [U.S. Environmental Protection Agency – Fix a Leak](https://www.epa.gov/watersense/fix-leak-week) - Details on how leaks waste water and basic steps to identify and fix common household leaks
• [Family Handyman – How to Fix a Leaky Faucet](https://www.familyhandyman.com/project/how-to-fix-a-leaky-faucet/) - Step-by-step guidance on different faucet types and cartridge replacement
• [This Old House – How to Patch a Hole in Drywall](https://www.thisoldhouse.com/walls/21017636/how-to-patch-a-hole-in-drywall) - Visual walkthroughs and tips for repairing drywall holes of different sizes
• [The Spruce – How to Fix a Running Toilet](https://www.thespruce.com/how-to-fix-a-running-toilet-2718683) - Clear explanation of toilet tank components and common running-toilet fixes
• [Lowe’s – Types of Wall Anchors](https://www.lowes.com/n/how-to/types-of-wall-anchors) - Overview of anchor types, load ratings, and when to use each for wall-mounted hardware