Owning a home means something will eventually break, leak, or stop working at the worst possible time. Calling a pro for every issue gets expensive fast—and often, the fix is simple enough for a careful DIYer. This guide walks through five practical, step‑by‑step repairs you can realistically handle yourself, with clear instructions and safety notes along the way.
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Step 1: Stop a Running Toilet the Right Way
A constantly running toilet wastes water and money. Most of the time, the problem is inside the tank and doesn’t require special tools.
What you’ll need:
Adjustable wrench (maybe), replacement flapper (if needed), towel, gloves (optional).
Step-by-step:
**Remove the tank lid and observe**
Carefully lift the lid and set it on a towel. Flush the toilet once and watch what happens in the tank: - Does the flapper seal properly? - Does water rise to the correct level and stop? - Is water trickling into the overflow tube?
**Check the flapper seal**
Turn off the water shutoff valve behind the toilet (clockwise). Flush to empty most of the water. Touch the flapper at the bottom of the tank: - If it’s warped, brittle, or doesn’t sit flat, it likely needs replacing. - If it looks fine, the chain might be too tight or tangled, preventing a full seal.
**Adjust or replace the flapper**
- Adjust: Leave a little slack in the chain—enough for the flapper to close fully without extra tension. - Replace: Unhook the old flapper from the overflow tube, attach the new one per the package instructions, and connect the chain to the flush lever.
**Set the water level correctly**
Turn the water back on and let the tank refill. Most tanks have a water line mark. If the water is too high or low: - **Float cup style:** Turn the screw on top of the fill valve clockwise to lower water level, counterclockwise to raise it. - **Float ball style:** Gently bend the float arm downward to lower water, upward to raise.
**Test for leaks and final tweaks**
Flush a few times. Listen for running water after the tank fills—there should be silence. If water still trickles, double‑check: - Flapper seal and chain slack - Water level not spilling into the overflow tube - Fill valve connections snug but not over‑tightened
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Step 2: Patch a Small Drywall Hole Like It Was Never There
Door knobs, moving furniture, and wall anchors can leave ugly holes. Small drywall repairs are very DIY‑friendly and make a big visual difference.
What you’ll need:
Spackle or joint compound, putty knife, sanding sponge or fine sandpaper (120–220 grit), primer, matching wall paint, damp cloth.
Step-by-step:
**Prep the damaged area**
Use the putty knife to gently scrape away loose drywall, flaking paint, or rough edges. Wipe dust away with a damp cloth and let dry. Clean edges help the patch bond properly.
**Fill the hole with compound**
For nail/screw holes or small dings, use lightweight spackle. For slightly larger holes (up to about 2 inches), joint compound works better. Press compound firmly into the hole with the putty knife, then smooth the surface so it’s flush or just slightly raised.
**Let it dry fully**
Follow the drying time on the package—rushing this is a common mistake. Drying can take from 30 minutes to several hours depending on the product and thickness.
**Sand for a smooth finish**
Lightly sand the patched area using a sanding sponge or fine‑grit paper. Your goal: no visible ridges or bumps and no obvious edge between old wall and new patch. Wipe away dust.
**Prime and paint to blend**
Apply a small amount of primer over the patch so your paint adheres evenly and doesn’t flash (look different in sheen). Once dry, paint with your wall color, feathering the edges into the surrounding area. A second coat usually gives the best blend.
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Step 3: Silence a Squeaky Interior Door
Squeaky doors are annoying but easy to fix with a bit of attention to the hinges and alignment.
What you’ll need:
Lubricant (silicone spray, lithium grease, or petroleum jelly), rag, flathead screwdriver or nail set and hammer (optional), wood shims (optional).
Step-by-step:
**Pinpoint the squeak source**
Slowly open and close the door while listening closely. Most squeaks come from hinges—not the latch. Touch each hinge lightly as you move the door; you’ll often feel vibration near the noisy one.
**Lubricate the hinge pins**
If accessible, lightly spray or dab lubricant on the top of the hinge pin so it seeps down into the hinge. Wipe off drips to avoid staining the door or floor. - For a deeper fix, gently tap the hinge pin up and out (using a screwdriver or nail set and hammer), coat it lightly with grease or petroleum jelly, then reinsert it.
**Tighten hinge screws**
Loose screws can throw the door out of alignment and cause both squeaks and sticking. With the door mostly closed, use a screwdriver to snug up all hinge screws on both the door and frame. Don’t overtighten—just firm.
**Check door alignment and rubbing points**
Close the door and look at the gap around it. If it rubs at the top or side, hinges may be slightly out of position or the frame may be out of square. - Sometimes tightening the top hinge screws alone improves alignment. - If the door still drags, you may need to slightly adjust the position of one hinge plate.
**Shim or adjust if needed**
For small adjustments, loosen hinge screws slightly, slip a thin cardboard shim behind the hinge (on the frame side), then retighten. This can nudge the door just enough to stop rubbing and squeaking. Test the door multiple times to confirm quiet, smooth movement.
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Step 4: Replace a Damaged Outlet Safely
Cracked faceplates, loose plugs, or outlets that feel warm can be unsafe. Replacing a standard outlet is doable if you work carefully and respect electricity.
Important safety note:
If you’re not comfortable working with electrical components, or your wiring looks damaged or unusual, stop and call a licensed electrician.
What you’ll need:
New outlet (same type and amperage as existing), flathead and Phillips screwdrivers, non‑contact voltage tester, wire stripper, needle‑nose pliers, new faceplate if needed.
Step-by-step:
**Turn off power at the breaker**
Find your electrical panel and switch off the breaker controlling that outlet. If it’s not labeled, turn off the likely circuit and test the outlet before touching any wires.
**Verify the power is off**
Use a non‑contact voltage tester at the outlet slots and around the box. The tester should show no voltage. Also, try plugging in a lamp or phone charger to confirm there’s no power.
**Remove the old outlet carefully**
Unscrew the faceplate, then the outlet itself. Gently pull the outlet out of the box without stressing the wires. Take a clear photo of the wiring before disconnecting so you can match it later.
**Transfer wires to the new outlet**
One wire at a time, move connections from the old outlet to the new one: - **Black (hot)** wire to brass screw - **White (neutral)** wire to silver screw - **Bare or green (ground)** wire to green screw Tighten screws firmly. Avoid using back‑stab (push‑in) connections if possible; screw terminals are generally more reliable.
**Reinstall and test**
Carefully fold wires back into the box, keeping them neat. Screw the new outlet into place, then attach the faceplate. Turn the breaker back on and test with a lamp or tester. If it doesn’t work or behaves oddly (buzzing, heat, flickering), turn power off and call a pro.
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Step 5: Fix a Slow-Draining Bathroom Sink
A slow sink drain is usually caused by hair and soap buildup just below the stopper—not deep in the plumbing. You can usually clear it without harsh chemicals.
What you’ll need:
Bucket or bowl, old toothbrush, small brush or plastic drain cleaning tool, adjustable wrench or pliers (optional), rubber gloves, rag.
Step-by-step:
**Remove visible debris at the drain**
If you can see hair or gunk right at the drain opening, put on gloves and pull out what you can by hand or with a plastic drain tool. Run hot water briefly to see if the flow improves.
**Clear the stopper mechanism**
Most bathroom sinks have a pop‑up stopper linked to a rod under the sink. Place a bucket under the drain area. Look for a horizontal rod entering the back of the drainpipe. - Unscrew the retaining nut holding that rod in place (hand‑tight or use pliers gently). - Pull the rod out; the stopper should lift straight out from the sink above.
**Clean the stopper thoroughly**
Hair and soap scum often build up at the bottom of the stopper. Use an old toothbrush and hot, soapy water to clean it thoroughly. If it’s cracked or badly worn, consider replacing it.
**Flush the drain opening**
With the stopper out, use a small brush or plastic drain tool to remove buildup inside the drain pipe just below the sink. Run very hot water for 20–30 seconds to flush loosened debris. Avoid strong chemical drain cleaners; they can damage pipes and are hazardous if splashed.
**Reassemble and test flow**
Reinsert the stopper from above, align it with the horizontal rod opening, then slide the rod back into place and tighten the retaining nut underneath. Make sure the pop‑up action works (up/down) when you operate the lift rod. Run water for a full minute and check both drainage speed and leaks under the sink.
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Conclusion
Handling basic repairs yourself doesn’t mean guessing or taking unsafe shortcuts—it means learning a repeatable process and respecting your limits. Fixing a running toilet, patching walls, quieting doors, replacing simple outlets, and clearing slow drains are realistic wins for most DIY‑minded homeowners. As you build experience, you’ll save money, prevent small issues from becoming big ones, and feel more in control of your home.
If a project feels beyond your comfort level—especially with electrical or structural work—pause and bring in a professional. Knowing when not to DIY is just as important as knowing how to fix things yourself.
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Sources
- [U.S. Environmental Protection Agency – WaterSense: Fix a Leak](https://www.epa.gov/watersense/fix-leak-week) - Details on how much water running toilets waste and basic leak-fixing guidance
- [Family Handyman – How to Patch and Repair Drywall](https://www.familyhandyman.com/project/how-to-patch-and-repair-drywall/) - Step-by-step visuals and additional drywall repair techniques
- [U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission – Electrical Outlet Safety](https://www.cpsc.gov/safety-education/safety-guides/home/electrical-safety-in-the-home) - Guidance on safe electrical practices in the home
- [Mayo Clinic – Household Chemicals Safety](https://www.mayoclinic.org/healthy-lifestyle/adult-health/in-depth/household-hazardous-waste/art-20043948) - Why caution is important when using chemical drain cleaners and other products
- [This Old House – How to Fix a Slow Draining Sink](https://www.thisoldhouse.com/plumbing/21015187/how-to-fix-a-slow-draining-sink) - Additional methods and visuals for clearing bathroom and kitchen sink drains
Key Takeaway
The most important thing to remember from this article is that this information can change how you think about Home Repair.
