Small issues in your home rarely stay small. A loose tile becomes a tripping hazard, a sticky window turns into a draft, and that wobbly handrail is just waiting for someone to lean on it. The good news: many of these problems are well within DIY range if you follow the right steps and stay patient.
This guide walks through five practical home repairs you can tackle with basic tools and a clear plan. Each repair is broken into straightforward steps so you know what to expect before you start.
1. Secure a Loose Towel Bar or Bathroom Rack
A loose towel bar usually means the anchors in the wall have failed, not that the bar is “cheap.” Fixing it correctly once will save you from tightening it every few weeks.
**Remove the bar and brackets carefully**
Loosen the set screws under the towel bar brackets with a small screwdriver or Allen key. Slide the bar out, then remove the bracket plates attached to the wall. Keep any screws and hardware in a small container so nothing rolls away.
**Inspect the wall and find solid backing**
Check the wall holes: if they’re enlarged, crumbly, or you can push a screwdriver in easily, the old anchors are done. Lightly tap around the area to listen for solid sound (stud) versus hollow sound (cavity). If a stud is nearby, you’ll get a much stronger mount by using it.
**Choose the right wall anchors**
For drywall with no stud, use new heavy‑duty drywall anchors rated for at least 25–50 lb, not the flimsy plastic plugs that often come in the package. For tile walls, use anchors designed for tile and a masonry bit. If you can hit a stud, skip anchors and use wood screws long enough to bite solidly into the stud (usually 1½–2 inches).
**Patch and pre‑drill clean mounting points**
If the original holes are destroyed or in the wrong place, fill them with joint compound (drywall) or epoxy filler (tile) and let it cure fully. Mark new bracket locations with a level so the bar sits perfectly straight. Pre‑drill pilot holes to match your anchors or screws—this reduces cracking and helps everything tighten down cleanly.
**Reinstall brackets and test the bar**
Secure the mounting plates with your chosen anchors or screws, then attach the decorative brackets and slide the bar back in. Tighten the set screws firmly, then test by pulling down and sideways with more force than a towel would create. If it doesn’t move, you’re done. If it wiggles, recheck your anchors before daily use.
2. Silence a Squeaky Interior Door
A squeaky door is usually friction, not a sign your door is “old.” Dealing with the hinges properly can quiet it for months or years.
**Confirm the squeak source**
Open and close the door slowly while listening closely. If the sound comes from the hinge area, it’s likely the hinge pin or hinge plates. If it’s from the top or side rubbing the frame, you may have an alignment issue in addition to (or instead of) a hinge problem.
**Remove one hinge pin at a time**
Place a rag or cardboard under the hinge to protect the floor. Starting with the middle hinge (if you have three), tap the bottom of the hinge pin upward with a small nail and hammer. Pull the pin out with pliers. Keep the door closed while you do this so it doesn’t shift.
**Clean the hinge pin and knuckles**
Wipe the pin with a cloth to remove old grease, dust, or rust. Use fine steel wool if it’s rusty. Blow out or brush the inside of the hinge knuckles on the door and frame. The cleaner the surfaces, the better your lubricant will work and the longer the fix will last.
**Lubricate with the right product**
Use a silicone‑based spray, dry Teflon spray, or a light machine oil. Avoid cooking oil—it gums up and attracts dirt. Lightly coat the hinge pin, then add a small amount inside the hinge knuckles. Reinsert the pin while opening and closing the door gently to work the lubricant into the joint.
**Check door alignment and adjust if needed**
If the door still squeaks or now sticks, check where it’s rubbing: look for fresh scuff marks on the edge or frame. Slight misalignment can often be fixed by tightening all hinge screws or replacing stripped screws with longer ones that bite into the wall stud. If the door rubs heavily at the top, slightly loosen the top hinge screws, lift the door with a shim or your hand, then retighten to “pull” the door square.
3. Repair a Small Hole in Drywall the Right Way
Nail pops and small holes are easy to patch, but doing it correctly makes the repair disappear instead of leaving a visible bump or hollow.
**Assess the hole size and choose a patch method**
For nail or screw holes (up to about ¼"), basic spackle works. For holes up to about 2–3", use a self‑adhesive mesh patch or a “California patch” (paper‑backed patch). Anything larger often needs a cut‑in drywall piece and backing. Choosing the correct method upfront prevents cracks and sags.
**Clean and slightly open up the damaged area**
Use a utility knife to remove loose paper and crumbling gypsum around the hole. Lightly bevel the edges so the compound can grip better. For nail pops, tap the nail back in and drive a drywall screw into the stud just above or below the popped nail to secure the sheet before patching.
**Apply patch or filler in thin layers**
For small holes, press lightweight spackle into the hole with a putty knife, then scrape off excess so it’s nearly flush. For mesh patches, stick the patch over the hole, then cover with joint compound extending 1–2" beyond the patch edges. Always apply compound in thin coats; thick blobs crack and take forever to dry.
**Sand between coats and feather the edges**
Once the first coat is fully dry (no dark spots), lightly sand with fine‑grit sandpaper to remove ridges. Apply a second, wider coat to feather the patch into surrounding wall, then sand again when dry. You may need a third very thin coat for larger patches to fully blend the surface.
**Prime and paint for an invisible finish**
Bare joint compound absorbs paint differently than the surrounding wall, which can leave a visible patch. Apply a small coat of primer over the repaired area and let it dry completely. Then paint the patched section, feathering the brush or roller into the surrounding paint. If possible, use the same paint sheen and batch that’s already on the wall.
4. Fix a Running Toilet Without Replacing the Whole Tank
A toilet that runs constantly wastes water and money. Most of the time, the fix is inside the tank and doesn’t require removing the toilet or calling a plumber.
**Identify where the water is escaping**
Remove the tank lid and set it somewhere safe. Flush once and watch what happens. If water keeps flowing into the bowl, suspect the flapper or flush valve. If water keeps entering the tank from the fill valve, suspect the fill level or float.
**Inspect and test the flapper**
The flapper is the rubber piece covering the flush valve at the bottom of the tank. Push it down firmly with a stick or the handle of a screwdriver while the toilet is running. If the running sound stops when you press, the flapper is likely worn, warped, or dirty and not sealing properly.
**Clean or replace the flapper**
Turn off the water supply at the valve behind the toilet and flush to drain most of the water from the tank. Remove the flapper from its pegs and detach it from the chain. Check for mineral buildup or slime; clean with a cloth if minor. If it’s stiff, cracked, or misshapen, replace it with a matching model from the hardware store. Reinstall, making sure the chain has a tiny bit of slack but isn’t so long it tangles.
**Adjust the water level and float**
Turn the water back on and let the tank refill. The water should stop about 1" below the top of the overflow tube. If it’s too high and constantly draining into the tube, adjust the float (either a screw on top of the fill valve or a clip on the float rod) so the valve shuts off earlier. Make small adjustments and test between each one.
**Check for leaks around tank parts**
Once the toilet flushes and refills quietly, use a dry paper towel around the flapper, fill valve, and tank bolts to check for slow leaks. If any fittings feel damp, gently tighten the related nut (never overtighten glassy porcelain surfaces). For a final check, add a few drops of food coloring to the tank and wait 20–30 minutes without flushing. If the bowl water changes color, you still have a leak past the flapper or flush valve that needs a closer look.
5. Re‑Caulk a Moldy or Cracked Bathtub Joint
Old caulk around your tub or shower not only looks bad—it can let water behind the walls. A careful re‑caulking job protects the structure and improves the look of the bathroom.
**Remove all old caulk, not just the loose bits**
Use a caulk removal tool or a sharp utility knife to cut along both sides of the caulk bead. Gently pry and peel it out. Take your time; leftover old caulk will keep the new bead from bonding well. Avoid cutting into the tub or tile surface—score lightly and repeat rather than forcing it.
**Clean and dry the joint thoroughly**
Once the old caulk is gone, scrub the area with a bathroom cleaner or a mix of water and a small amount of bleach to kill any mold. Rinse well and let the joint dry completely—ideally overnight. Any trapped moisture will weaken the new caulk and can lead to future mold.
**Choose the right caulk and prep your tube**
For tubs and showers, use a 100% silicone or a “kitchen & bath” labeled caulk with mold resistance. Cut the tube tip at a 45‑degree angle to match the width of the gap you’re filling; smaller, clean gaps need a smaller opening. Puncture the inner seal if required. Practice a few squeezes on scrap cardboard to get a feel for the flow.
**Apply a smooth, continuous bead**
Starting in a corner, hold the caulk tube at about a 45‑degree angle and pull it steadily along the joint, applying even pressure. Aim for a single continuous bead instead of stopping and starting every few inches. Work in sections you can finish smoothing within a few minutes before the skin starts to form.
**Tool the caulk for a clean, watertight finish**
Wet your finger or use a caulk‑smoothing tool, then gently press and slide along the bead to push caulk into the joint and remove excess. Wipe extra caulk onto a paper towel as you go. The finished bead should be slightly concave and fully contact both sides of the joint. Follow the manufacturer’s cure time (often 24 hours) before using the shower or tub so the seal sets properly.
Conclusion
Tackling home repairs isn’t about doing everything perfectly on the first try—it’s about learning to break each task into clear steps and using the right materials. By securing loose fixtures, quieting doors, patching walls, stopping a running toilet, and renewing bathtub caulk, you’ll solve problems that most homeowners simply live with.
Start with one project, take your time, and document your progress. Photos of before‑and‑after fixes not only help you track what you’ve done, they’re also great for sharing tips with other DIYers who are ready to get their home Fix Ready.
Key Takeaway
The most important thing to remember from this article is that this information can change how you think about Home Repair.
