Stop Door Drafts for Good: A Practical DIY Weatherstripping Guide

This guide walks you through a straightforward, DIY-friendly way to weatherstrip exterior (and drafty interior) doors so your home feels warmer in winter, cooler in summer, and quieter year-round.

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Understand Where the Draft Is Coming From

Before you start sticking anything to your door, you need to figure out exactly where air is getting in. That helps you choose the right materials and avoid wasting time on the wrong fix.

Stand near the door on a windy day or with your HVAC running. Slowly move your hand around the door frame, bottom, and corners to feel for cold (or hot) air. If it’s calm outside, you can:

• Turn off fans and close windows so air is still
• Use a lit incense stick, match, or candle and slowly move it along the door edges (carefully, and away from anything flammable)
• Watch for smoke or the flame being pushed or pulled in one direction—this points to a draft

Common leak points include:

• The gap along the bottom of the door
• The latch side (where the door closes into the frame)
• The top corner on the hinge side
• Old or flattened weatherstripping that no longer springs back

Once you know where the air is sneaking in, you can choose the right type of weatherstripping (foam, rubber, sweep, or a combo) and plan your repair.

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Step 1: Gather Tools and Choose the Right Weatherstripping

Walking into the hardware aisle without a plan can be overwhelming. Focus on what your specific door needs and don’t overcomplicate it.

Basic tools and supplies:

• Tape measure
• Utility knife or heavy-duty scissors
• Pencil or marker
• Screwdriver or drill/driver (for door sweeps)
• Rubbing alcohol or mild cleaner and rags
• Weatherstripping and/or door sweep

Common weatherstripping options:

• **Adhesive foam tape:** Easy to install, good for uneven gaps; best for small to medium gaps around the sides and top.
• **Rubber or vinyl weatherstripping (V-strip or bulb type):** More durable, good seal; great for frequently used exterior doors.
• **Door sweep:** Long strip that attaches to the bottom of the door with a flexible rubber or brush edge; ideal if you see light or feel air under the door.
• **Threshold with integrated seal:** A more advanced swap if your existing threshold is damaged or warped.

Match the product to your draft:

• Gap mainly at the bottom? Use a **door sweep**.
• Light showing around the frame? Use **foam or rubber** around the sides/top.
• Large, uneven gap at the bottom and a worn threshold? Consider a **new threshold plus sweep**.

Lay everything out before you start so you’re not running back and forth mid-project.

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Step 2: Remove Old Weatherstripping and Prep the Surface

New adhesive won’t stick to dusty wood, old foam, or oily residue. Taking a few extra minutes to clean and prep will make your repair last longer.

1. **Gently pull off old weatherstripping.**
• Start at one end and slowly peel back.
• If it tears, use a putty knife or scraper to help lift stubborn pieces.
• **Remove leftover adhesive.**
• Use a plastic scraper or old credit card to avoid gouging the frame.
• For sticky residue, lightly dampen a rag with adhesive remover or rubbing alcohol and wipe until smooth. Test in an inconspicuous spot first.
• **Clean the surface.**
• Wipe the door frame and bottom edge with mild soap and water or an all-purpose cleaner.
• Follow with a dry cloth so everything is clean and dry before applying new materials.
• **Inspect the frame and door.**
• Look for cracked wood, loose screws in the hinges, or warped areas.
• Tighten loose hinge screws to ensure the door hangs square; a sagging door can create uneven gaps that weatherstripping alone can’t fix.

A clean, smooth surface helps the weatherstripping bond properly and do its job season after season.

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Step 3: Measure and Cut Weatherstripping for a Custom Fit

Guessing the length and forcing pieces to fit will lead to gaps, buckling, or peeling. Take a few minutes to measure carefully and cut accurately.

1. **Measure each side separately.**
• Use a tape measure to get the length of the hinge side, latch side, and top of the door frame.
• Write each measurement down; don’t assume sides are identical.
• **Transfer measurements to the weatherstripping.**
• Lay the strip flat on a work surface.
• Mark your cut line with a pencil or marker for each piece.
• **Cut cleanly.**
• Use a sharp utility knife and a straight edge, or heavy-duty scissors for foam and some vinyl strips.
• Cut just outside the line if you’re unsure—you can always trim a bit more.
• **Test-fit before peeling backing.**
• Hold each piece in place along the frame to check alignment and length.
• The strip should run the full length with no major gaps but shouldn’t be so long it bunches up.

For a standard single door, you’ll typically have three separate pieces of frame weatherstripping: one for each side and one for the top, plus a separate door sweep for the bottom if needed.

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Step 4: Install Frame Weatherstripping Without Making the Door Hard to Close

This step is where many DIYers accidentally overdo it and end up with a door that’s tough to latch. The goal is a light but continuous contact between the seal and the door when it’s closed.

1. **Start on the latch side.**
• With the door open, position the strip so the soft edge just meets the door’s edge when closed—not so tight that you have to slam it.
• Peel a short section of adhesive backing (6–12 inches) and stick that part in place first.
• **Work gradually.**
• Continue peeling the backing a little at a time and pressing the strip firmly into the frame.
• Keep the strip straight and avoid stretching the material, which can cause it to pull back over time.
• **Repeat for the top and hinge side.**
• Install the top piece next, then the hinge side, using the same gradual approach.
• Make sure corners meet snugly. If you have a small gap at a corner, trim and adjust rather than forcing it.
• **Check the door operation.**
• Close the door slowly and see how it feels.
• The door should close fully with a firm but normal push. If you have to lean your body weight into it, the strip is probably too thick or positioned too far inward—peel it back and shift slightly outward.
• **Look and feel for gaps.**
• From inside, turn the lights off during the day and look for light around the frame (especially corners).
• Run your hand along the edges to check for noticeable air movement.

If some areas are still leaky, you can add a thin secondary strip or swap to a slightly thicker product there—just keep door function your top priority.

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Step 5: Install and Adjust a Door Sweep to Seal the Bottom Gap

A door sweep is the workhorse against drafts under your door. Installed correctly, it will block air and bugs without dragging across the floor or threshold.

1. **Measure the door width.**
• Measure from one edge of the door to the other.
• If your sweep is longer, you’ll cut it down to size.
• **Cut the sweep to length (if needed).**
• For aluminum-backed sweeps, mark the cut line and use a hacksaw for the metal and a utility knife or scissors for the rubber.
• For all-rubber or vinyl sweeps, heavy-duty scissors usually work.
• **Position the sweep.**
• Close the door.
• Hold the sweep against the inside bottom edge of the door so the flexible rubber or brush just touches the threshold or floor.
• It should lightly brush the surface, not crush against it.
• **Pre-drill and attach.**
• If your sweep uses screws, mark screw hole locations through the pre-drilled sweep holes onto the door.
• Pre-drill small pilot holes to prevent splitting, then attach the sweep with the provided screws.
• For adhesive-only sweeps, clean the door bottom thoroughly, peel backing, and press firmly in place.
• **Test and fine-tune.**
• Open and close the door several times.
• If you feel dragging or the door is harder to close, slightly loosen the screws, raise the sweep a hair, and retighten.
• If you can still see light or feel a strong draft, lower the sweep or consider a thicker style.

Once it’s adjusted, the door should move smoothly while the sweep quietly wipes across the threshold—a sign it’s sealing without excessive friction.

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Conclusion

Fixing a drafty door is one of those home repairs that pays you back every day: fewer cold spots, more consistent temperatures, and lower energy use. By tracking down where air is getting through, choosing the right weatherstripping, and installing it with a bit of care, you can upgrade the comfort of your home in a single afternoon.

Don’t wait for the next utility bill to spike or cold front to roll in. Check your most-used doors, feel for drafts, and use this step-by-step approach to seal them up so your home works—and feels—better.

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Sources

• [U.S. Department of Energy – Weatherstripping](https://www.energy.gov/energysaver/weatherstripping) - Explains different weatherstripping types, where to use them, and energy-saving benefits
• [ENERGY STAR – Air Sealing Your Home](https://www.energystar.gov/improve_your_home/seal_air_leaks) - Overview of why air sealing matters and where typical leaks occur in homes
• [Family Handyman – How to Install Weatherstripping](https://www.familyhandyman.com/project/how-to-install-weatherstripping/) - Practical tips and visuals for installing various weatherstripping products
• [This Old House – How to Weatherstrip a Door](https://www.thisoldhouse.com/doors/21017669/how-to-weatherstrip-a-door) - Step-by-step door-specific weatherstripping guidance with photos
• [U.S. EPA – Energy Efficiency at Home](https://www.epa.gov/greenhomes/energy-efficiency) - Background on reducing home energy use, including improving insulation and sealing drafts