Stop Hiding The “Ugly Stuff”: How To Turn Eyesores Into Smart Home Fixes

Inspired by that trend, this guide focuses on five common “ugly” problems and turns them into straightforward home repair projects. These are real upgrades, not just clever ways to shove things behind a plant for Instagram. Each section walks you through what to do, what to buy, and how to do it safely.

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1. Taming TV & Desk Cable Chaos (Without Cutting Into Walls)

Messy cables are one of the most-shared “ugly stuff” complaints online right now. Instead of just bundling them with a zip tie, you can make them almost disappear and protect them from damage.

Step 1: Map the path

Decide where the cables need to run:

• From TV to outlet and devices
• From desk to surge protector or UPS

Use painter’s tape to mark a clean, straight path along the wall, baseboard, or underside of your desk.

Step 2: Choose the right cable management system

For renters or anyone avoiding major work, skip in‑wall kits and use:

• Surface raceways (paintable plastic channels that stick to the wall)
• Under‑desk cable trays
• Adhesive cable clips for corners and turns

Measure the total length you need and add 10–15% extra for slack.

Step 3: Prepare and label your cables

Unplug everything. Wipe cables with a dry cloth so adhesive will stick.

Before you run anything, label both ends using:

• Pre-made cable tags, or
• Masking tape folded over the cable and written on with a marker

This makes future troubleshooting way easier.

Step 4: Install the raceway or tray

For wall raceways:

• Clean the wall with mild soap and water; let dry.
• Cut raceway to length with a hacksaw or heavy-duty snips.
• Peel adhesive backing and press firmly along your taped line for 30–60 seconds per section.
• Snap the cover open to lay the cables, then close it once everything is in place.

For under‑desk trays:

• Use included screws (best option) or heavy-duty adhesive if you can’t screw into the desk.
• Install close to the back edge so cables drop straight down.

Step 5: Bundle and finish

Use Velcro cable ties (not zip ties — they’re easier to adjust) to group cables logically:

• Power together (but not tightly bound to data cables over long runs)
• HDMI/ethernet together
• USB/peripheral cables together

Add one or two adhesive clips near the outlet to hold plugs neatly. Once done, you’ll have a cleaner look that holds up long after the trend dies down.

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2. Fixing Dented Or Chipped Drywall So It Actually Disappears

That dent from a doorknob or the chip from moving furniture doesn’t need to be hidden behind a tall plant or giant art forever. A proper patch is easier than you think and looks better in real life and photos.

Step 1: Assess the damage

• **Small dings/screw holes**: Less than a coin-sized area deep — use lightweight spackle.
• **Medium holes** (up to about 4–5 inches): Use a self-adhesive mesh patch plus joint compound.
• **Large holes**: Likely need a drywall cut-out and new piece; that’s a bigger project than we’ll cover here.

Step 2: Prep the area

• Use a utility knife to scrape away loose paper or flaking drywall.
• Slightly bevel the edges of the hole or dent so compound has something to grab onto.
• Wipe with a dry cloth to remove dust.

Step 3: Apply filler

For small dings:

• Use a putty knife to press lightweight spackle into the hole.
• Smooth it so it’s just slightly proud of the wall surface.

For medium holes:

• Stick the mesh patch centered over the hole.
• Apply a thin layer of joint compound over the patch, extending 1–2 inches past the edges.
• Let dry completely (follow the package time — often several hours or overnight).

Step 4: Sand and feather

• Use 120–220 grit sandpaper or a sanding sponge.
• Sand gently, focusing on edges to blend into the existing wall, not just the center.
• If you can feel a ridge with your fingers, add a second thin coat of compound, let dry, and sand again.

Step 5: Prime and paint

This is where many people fail, and the patch stays visible in certain light.

• Always use **primer** over patches so the paint doesn’t flash (look different from the surrounding wall).
• Once primer is dry, use the exact wall paint or a very close match.
• Feather your brush or roller out 8–12 inches beyond the patch line to blend.

Done right, you don’t have to hide that wall behind furniture anymore.

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3. Rehanging a Sagging Shelf So It Can Actually Hold Weight

Viral “ugly fix” posts often show shelves propped up with books or random wedges. That’s a sign the original hardware was wrong or installed poorly. A solid re-hang can turn that hazard into real storage.

Step 1: Clear and inspect

• Take everything off the shelf.
• Remove the shelf and brackets from the wall.
• Look at the screw holes: are they stripped, too close to the edge, or obviously not in studs?

Step 2: Find solid support

Use a stud finder to locate wall studs:

• Run it slowly along the wall and mark stud locations with painter’s tape.
• If your shelf is heavy or will hold books, aim to hit at least **two studs** with your brackets.

If your ideal shelf position doesn’t line up perfectly with studs, plan to:

• Hit as many studs as possible, and
• Use heavy-duty wall anchors in the remaining spots (rated for more weight than you expect to store).

Step 3: Patch bad holes

Old, misplaced holes weaken the area.

• Fill previous screw holes with wood filler (if in trim) or spackle (if in drywall).
• Let dry and sand smooth.
• You can touch up paint later or leave it for now if it will be hidden behind the shelf.

Step 4: Install brackets properly

• Measure and level one bracket on the wall. Mark screw holes.
• Pre-drill into studs with a bit slightly smaller than your screw diameter.
• For any holes not in studs, install heavy-duty anchors according to package instructions.
• Screw the first bracket in fully, then level and install the second bracket using the marks and level again.
• For wide or deep shelves, consider adding a center bracket.

Step 5: Secure the shelf to the brackets

Instead of just letting the shelf rest on top:

• Pre-drill small pilot holes up through the brackets into the underside of the shelf.
• Use short wood screws that **do not** go through the top of the shelf.

This locks everything together and helps prevent future sagging or tipping.

Now that shelf can appear in your photos because it’s both straight and safe.

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4. Upgrading “Temporary” Curtain Fixes To Real, Solid Mounts

Tension rods and crooked brackets are another common “I’ll fix it later” problem. Properly mounted curtain rods not only look better but also make your windows feel finished and your room more pulled together.

Step 1: Choose the right hardware

• For heavier curtains or wide spans, use **center support brackets**.
• Make sure your anchors (or screws into studs) are rated for more than the curtain and rod weight combined.
• Avoid the flimsy plastic anchors that come in many cheap kits; upgrade to metal or heavy-duty anchors if needed.

Step 2: Mark an even height

• Decide on height: typically 4–6 inches above the window trim, and 3–6 inches wider on each side.
• Use a tape measure and mark one side.
• Use a level to carry that height line across to the other side so your rod doesn’t end up sloping.

Step 3: Find studs (if possible)

• Run a stud finder around your planned bracket locations.
• If you hit a stud, great — use wood screws directly into it.
• If you don’t, mark your bracket holes and plan to use solid wall anchors.

Step 4: Drill and anchor

• Pre-drill pilot holes where the bracket screws will go.
• Install wall anchors for any holes not going into studs.
• Screw the brackets on, checking level again as you tighten.

Step 5: Hang, test, and adjust

• Slide the curtains onto the rod and set the rod into the brackets.
• Gently tug down and out to test strength. If anything wobbles, tighten screws or upgrade your anchors before calling it done.
• Step back and adjust curtain fullness and length so they just kiss the floor or hover slightly above, depending on your preference.

Once done, you can finally retire the tension rod and the “don’t pull too hard” warnings.

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5. Turning The “Junk Drawer Corner” Into A Functional Command Center

That one counter or corner where mail, tools, random chargers, and keys pile up shows up in nearly every “ugly but real” home post. Instead of cropping it out of photos, you can convert it into a simple, organized command center.

Step 1: Empty and sort ruthlessly

• Clear the entire surface and any drawers or baskets in that area.
• Sort into clear piles: **everyday use**, **occasional use**, **trash/recycle**, **belongs elsewhere**.

Only what you truly use weekly or daily should live in this zone.

Step 2: Measure the space

• Measure width, height, and depth of the area you’re reclaiming (wall and counter).
• Take a quick photo on your phone; this helps when shopping for organizers.

Step 3: Choose the right organizers

Aim for vertical storage to keep the surface clear:

• Wall‑mounted mail sorter or magazine rack (for mail, manuals)
• Small pegboard or rail system (for scissors, tape, keys, small tools)
• Charging station or simple cable organizer (for phones and tablets)
• A small tray or bowl (for keys, wallet, daily carry items)

Stick to 2–3 main elements so the wall doesn’t become visually cluttered.

Step 4: Install and label

• Mount the mail sorter, pegboard, or rail into studs or with proper wall anchors.
• Use a level so it looks intentional, not slapped up.
• Add simple labels: “To Pay”, “To File”, “Tools”, “Chargers”. Labels dramatically increase the odds things return to their home.

Step 5: Set rules and maintain

• Decide what’s allowed to live there: bills, keys, everyday tools, not random junk.
• Do a 5‑minute reset once a week: throw trash, return out-of-place items.
• If something doesn’t fit into your categories, it probably doesn’t belong in the command center.

Now that corner goes from “don’t photograph that side” to a spot that makes your daily life easier.

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Conclusion

The internet might be having fun sharing ridiculous ways to hide the “ugly stuff,” but long term, actually fixing these problems is better for both your sanity and your space. Cable chaos, wall damage, sagging shelves, flimsy curtains, and clutter corners are exactly the kind of issues that look small in photos but feel huge in everyday life.

You don’t need a full renovation or a pro crew to get meaningful results — just a few tools, the right hardware, and a plan. Pick one area that bothers you the most and tackle it this week. Once you see how much better that one fix feels, the rest of your “I’ll deal with it later” list becomes a lot less intimidating.