When Elton John clapped back at fans trolling a “filthy” detail in his kitchen, the internet did what it always does: zoomed in, judged, and argued. Some called it gross, others defended him for actually using his kitchen instead of staging it for Instagram.
Behind the noise is a real, very current question for homeowners: what does a real working kitchen (or home) actually look like—and how do you keep it from quietly falling apart while still living in it every day?
Using Elton’s much‑discussed kitchen as a jumping-off point, this guide walks through practical, do‑it‑today maintenance steps for the most “judged” parts of your home: the places where mess, wear, and hidden damage pile up. These aren’t makeover tips for photos—they’re durable fixes for how you really live.
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1. Turn a “Filthy” Stove Area Into a Safe, Efficient Cooking Zone
Elton’s kitchen critics were focused on how things looked. You should be more worried about how things work—especially around heat and grease.
Step 1: Power and gas safety first
Turn off all burners and let the stove cool completely. If you have a gas range, make sure knobs are off and you don’t smell gas. For electric ranges, unplug if accessible. Pull the range forward only if you’re confident you can do it safely without straining gas or electrical lines.
Step 2: Remove and deep-clean the pieces that collect danger, not just dirt
Take off burner grates, burner caps, and control knobs (most knobs pull straight off). Soak grates and caps in hot water with a degreaser or a strong dish soap. Clean knobs separately with mild soap—harsh chemicals can remove markings. Wipe the stovetop with a degreaser, focusing on the seams around burners where spills can carbonize and affect performance.
Step 3: Clear burner ports and igniters properly
For gas ranges, use a soft brush or a toothpick (never a metal pin) to clear clogged burner ports. Grease and cooked-on food here can cause uneven flames or no ignition at all. Gently clean around the igniter head with a toothbrush and a dab of rubbing alcohol; let it dry completely before relighting.
Step 4: De-grease the hidden fire hazard: the vent hood and filters
Remove the metal filters from your range hood. Most can go straight into hot, soapy water or the dishwasher (check your manual). Wipe the underside of the hood and fan housing with a degreaser. This isn’t just about looks—built-up grease is a real fire risk and makes your fan far less effective.
Step 5: Finish with function checks, not just a shine
Reassemble everything and turn on each burner. You want steady, blue flames on gas stoves—yellow tips usually mean incomplete combustion or dirty ports. Run the vent fan and check that it’s pulling air (hold a paper towel up to the filter to test suction). Only then worry about the final wipe-down and polish.
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2. Fix “That One Disgusting Corner” of Your Kitchen Sink for Good
The internet loves to freeze-frame celebrity sinks and zoom in on grime at the drain or faucet base. At home, that same buildup can damage finishes, harbor mold, and slowly leak into your cabinets.
Step 1: Clear the decks and inspect every seam
Empty the sink and clear under the cabinet. Use a flashlight to inspect:
- Around the faucet base
- Around the sink rim
- At the drain flange
- Inside the cabinet where plumbing passes through
Look for bubbling caulk, dark stains, or swollen cabinet bottoms—early signs of leaks.
Step 2: De-gunk the drain and rim without wrecking the finish
Remove the drain stopper or basket. Use a small brush and a mild abrasive (like baking soda) with dish soap to scrub the drain collar and the silicone/caulk edge where the sink meets the countertop. Avoid steel wool on stainless sinks and abrasive powders on composite or enamel—those scratches hold grime and speed up staining.
Step 3: Reseal failing silicone before it becomes a full repair
If the caulk around the sink rim or backsplash is cracked or moldy, cut it out with a sharp utility knife or caulk removal tool. Clean the gap with rubbing alcohol and let it dry fully. Apply a thin bead of 100% silicone kitchen & bath caulk, then smooth it with a wet finger or caulk tool. Keep the sink area dry for at least 24 hours.
Step 4: Tighten up the faucet and supply lines
Gently wiggle the faucet body. If it moves, grab a basin wrench and tighten the mounting nuts under the sink. Check supply line connections and the shut-off valves for any signs of sweating or active drips. Hand-tighten first; only give a slight additional turn with a wrench to avoid over-torquing.
Step 5: Add a simple “no-more-mystery-leaks” habit
Place a cheap plastic tray or baking sheet under the P-trap and valves. Once a month, run hot water and then quickly wipe the P-trap and valve areas with a dry paper towel—any damp spots show up immediately. This is the fastest way to catch slow leaks before they destroy cabinets or floors.
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3. Stop Social-Media-Worthy Fridge Doors From Quietly Destroying Your Floor
Celebrity kitchen photos love a wide, dramatic fridge door swing. In real life, a heavy, poorly adjusted refrigerator can chew up your floor, leak condensation, and run hotter than it should.
Step 1: Level your fridge so doors shut on their own
Place a level on top of the fridge, front-to-back and side-to-side. Most units should be slightly higher at the front (about a quarter-bubble) so doors close by gravity. Adjust the front leveling legs or wheels with a wrench until doors swing shut smoothly instead of hanging half-open.
Step 2: Clean the coils to cut energy use and heat
Unplug the fridge. Access the condenser coils—either at the back or behind a front kick plate. Use a vacuum with a brush attachment or a coil-cleaning brush to remove dust, pet hair, and lint. Dirty coils can add 10–25% to your energy use and shorten compressor life.
Step 3: Inspect and clean gaskets like they actually matter (they do)
Open each door and check the rubber gaskets for cracks, mold, or flattening. Clean them with warm, soapy water and a soft cloth. To test the seal, close the door on a dollar bill. If it slides out easily at multiple spots, the gasket may need replacement or the door needs realignment.
Step 4: Fix minor condensation before it turns into warped flooring
If you see regular condensation at the fridge bottom edge or under the doors, check the door alignment first. Then inspect the drain line (usually at the back, leading to a small pan near the compressor). Clear clogs with a pipe cleaner or a length of weed-whacker line—never something that can puncture it.
Step 5: Protect your floor from heavy-appliance scars
If your fridge sits on soft flooring (vinyl, some laminates), place appliance glides or hard plastic sliders under the feet. When you pull the unit out for cleaning, roll gently—don’t drag. Those long, white scrape lines you see in home listing photos start with “I’ll just nudge this a bit.”
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4. Make Your “Background” Backsplash and Counters Last Longer Than the Trends
Elton John’s kitchen shots made people argue about style—tile choices, clutter, color. Style changes; repairs cost real money. Protect what you’ve already installed so you’re not forced into a renovation early.
Step 1: Find the weak points: grout lines and counter seams
Look closely at:
- The joint where backsplash meets countertop
- Grout lines behind the stove and sink
- Any seams in stone or laminate counters
You’re searching for hairline cracks, missing grout bits, or gaps in caulk—these are water and grease entry points.
Step 2: Clean for adhesion, not for Instagram
Before repairing anything, clean those areas with a degreaser or a mix of warm water and a few drops of dish soap. Rinse and dry thoroughly. For grout, use a grout brush to clear dust and soap scum so new material bonds properly.
Step 3: Patch grout before it starts popping out in chunks
For cement-based grout, mix a small batch of matching repair grout per the manufacturer’s instructions. Press it firmly into any missing spots with a grout float or your finger (gloved), then wipe excess with a barely damp sponge after it firms up. For epoxy grout, follow the specific working times—it sets faster and is less forgiving.
Step 4: Reseal stone and grout in the highest‑abuse zones
On natural stone or porous tile, drop a bit of water on the surface. If it darkens immediately, you need sealer. Use a penetrating grout and stone sealer, applying with a small brush or sponge in a thin coat. Focus on behind the cooktop and the area around the sink. Wipe off surface excess—sealer should soak in, not sit tacky.
Step 5: Use protective habits that actually extend life
Place a low-profile, heat-resistant mat behind the range for splatter-heavy cooking. Use cutting boards and trivets religiously—hot pots on stone can cause thermal shock, and knife marks on laminate are basically permanent. These small habits do more for long-term durability than any expensive cleaner.
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5. Keep Cabinets From Going From “Lived-In” to “Falling Off the Wall”
Online, people will drag a celebrity for a messy cabinet front. Offline, your bigger problem is doors slowly sagging, screws pulling out, and hinges ripping free from swollen particleboard.
Step 1: Tighten the obvious before it becomes structural
Open each upper and lower cabinet, and gently lift up on the door. If there’s play, use a screwdriver to tighten hinge screws on both the door and the cabinet frame. On uppers, inspect the mounting screws at the top back where the cabinet meets the wall—tighten any that have backed out.
Step 2: Fix stripped hinge screws the right way
If a hinge screw just spins and won’t tighten, don’t keep forcing it. Remove it and fill the hole with wooden toothpicks dipped in wood glue, or a short piece of wood dowel glued in place. Let it dry, trim flush, then reinstall the screw. This gives the threads fresh material to bite into.
Step 3: Check for moisture damage under sinks and next to dishwashers
These are the cabinets most likely to swell, delaminate, or crumble. Press gently on the cabinet floor and side panels. If they feel soft or “crunchy,” investigate for leaks (see the sink section) and dry everything thoroughly. Minor swelling can sometimes be stabilized; major damage may require panel or cabinet replacement before hinges rip out entirely.
Step 4: Adjust hinges to stop door collisions and stress
Most modern European-style hinges have three screws:
- In-and-out (depth)
- Side-to-side (left/right)
- Up-and-down (sometimes at the mounting plate)
- Create even gaps between doors
- Prevent doors from rubbing or slamming into each other
- Align doors so they fully close without force
Use small adjustments to:
Less binding means less stress on hinges and screws.
Step 5: Add simple hardware where your hands cause the most wear
If you’re constantly grabbing door edges instead of knobs or pulls, oils from your hands will break down finishes and soften edges over time. Adding basic knobs or handles in the most-used zones (trash pull-out, everyday dishes, under-sink) reduces finish wear and helps doors stay cleaner longer—no comment section required.
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Conclusion
Elton John’s “filthy kitchen” moment made people argue about what a home should look like. The more useful question is what your home needs to survive daily use without turning into a hidden repair bill.
If you focus on the unglamorous spots—stoves, sinks, fridges, backsplashes, and cabinets—you’ll keep your kitchen working like a pro’s, even if it never looks like a staged set.
Do one section from this checklist each weekend. In a month, the parts of your home most likely to be judged online—and most likely to fail offline—will be cleaner, safer, and far more Fix Ready than the comments section will ever give you credit for.
Key Takeaway
The most important thing to remember from this article is that this information can change how you think about Home Repair.
